by Nicolas Wieman
In June of 1842, America’s first grand naval expedition of scientific discovery returned to America’s shores laden with literal tons of samples and specimens from the South Pacific, the Pacific Northwest, and the fabled shores of the Antarctic continent. The findings of the expedition energized the American scientific community and would eventually form the basis of the Smithsonian Institution. However, the scientific achievements of the expedition were overshadowed by the scandal that surrounded it, centered around the conduct of the expedition’s commanding officer, Charles Wilkes.
| Charles Wilkes (U.S. Naval Academy Museum) |
While the 1804 Lewis and Clark expedition had fulfilled a young America’s desire for exploration of the continent, it would not be until 1838 that America would dispatch a journey of discovery by sea. While approval for such a venture had been given by President John Quincy Adams in 1828, delays in funding and shifts in presidential priorities during the Jackson Administration ensured that it would take nearly a decade for the expedition to begin preparations in 1837. Thomas ap Catesby Jones, the officer initially chosen to command the Expedition, resigned from the appointment after the stresses of political infighting, logistical challenges, and naval intrigue gave him a severe medical emergency.
| Satirical cartoon of the U.S. Ex.Ex. from August 1838 (Library of Congress) |
For the young Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, however, the Exploration Expedition (or “Ex.Ex.”) was the voyage of a lifetime. A gifted cartographer and nautical surveyor, his extensive survey of Narragansett Bay had earned him the respect of his peers and command of the U.S Navy’s Department of Charts and Instruments, while his membership in the Columbian Institute for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences ensured that he was well-acquainted with the leading scientific minds of the time. Even though he was only a Lieutenant, and over the outcries of more experienced officers, Secretary of War Joel Poinsett appointed him commander of the Expedition.
On the morning of August 18, 1838, the expedition left Norfolk. Lieutenant Wilkes commanded the flagship USS Vincennes, herself no stranger to long voyages of exploration, as the first US warship to circumnavigate the globe. Accompanying Vincennes was the sloop of war USS Peacock, commanded by one of Wilkes’ closest friends in the Navy, Lieutenant William Hudson. Accompanying them was USS Porpoise, supply ship USS Relief, and the two schooners USS Flying Fish and USS Sea Gull. Each ship was structurally reinforced and made to be “floating laboratories,” with the latest in scientific equipment for the full crew of scientists, and with space to spare for the specimens they’d be collecting.
Their route, known only by Wilkes and select officers, called for a “three-year dash around the globe,” with three main destinations: Antarctica, the Fiji Islands, and the mouth of the Columbia River. They would begin by sailing to Madeira, off the coast of Portugal, then sail to Rio De Janeiro while investigating possible locations of shoals in the mid-Atlantic. From there, they would sail to Orange Bay at Cape Horn, at the tip of Chile’s Tierra Del Fuego archipelago. While leaving Peacock and Relief at Cape Horn to allow the scientists to conduct their work, Wilkes would lead a reconnaissance expedition south of the Antarctic circle, going as far as they could before the southern hemisphere winter froze them out. They would then meet up with the rest of the squadron at Valparaiso, Chile, then sail to Sydney, Australia to prepare for their main thrust to Antarctica.
| Valparaiso Bay in 1830 (Museo Histórico Nacional de Chile) |
It was on this leg of the journey that the greatest obstacle to the Expedition’s success revealed itself: Charles Wilkes himself. After a nervous breakdown during their stopover in Rio, Wilkes underwent what looked like a radical shift in personality. While Charles Wilkes’ skill as a surveyor suited him well to the voyages’ scientific aims, and his infectious charisma ensured at least a grudging respect from much of the crew, his lack of experience in commanding a ship at sea compared to his nominal subordinates weighed heavily on his psyche. Under the immense pressure of commanding the Expedition, he consciously adopted the persona of a martinet, a strict disciplinarian, to cover for his lack of seagoing experience.
He became convinced that there were a “cabal” of officers, mostly holdovers from Jones’ appointments, that were conspiring to undermine the expedition. Those officers who had served with him before knew him only as a perfectly genial and easy-going gentleman and were surprised to see him lash out at others. In the years to come, Wilkes would regularly suspend or dismiss officers from the squadron, sending them back to the United States on whatever ship he found that he could put them on. This would prove to be his undoing, as when these officers returned to Washington, they’d come bearing news of Wilkes’ shocking behavior, laying the grounds for his eventual court martial.
This insecurity expressed itself most obviously in his preoccupation with his rank. While commanding a squadron of this size would ordinarily have merited promotion to Captain, he remained a Lieutenant, ostensibly due to the Secretary’s illness delaying the publication of the promotion list. He demanded to be addressed as Captain, modified his and Hudson’s uniforms to resemble those of a Captain, and even flew the pennant of a Commodore (a Captain commanding a squadron) from Vincennes. He spurned the company of most other officers, limiting his social circle to Lieutenant Hudson and a selection of officers he’d served alongside on the Narragansett Bay survey.
The first southern expedition, which set off February 25, 1839, made it as far south as latitude 70 degrees South, 101 degrees West, just a hundred miles north of what is now called the Palmer Peninsula. This reconnaissance mission, while valuable in terms of coming closest to Antarctica than any other voyage in history, would come at a price. On the return trip north, Sea Gull was separated from Porpoise in a gale and did not make their rendezvous point at Valparaiso by the time the rest of the Squadron arrived. It was presumed lost at sea. Wilkes took this opportunity to “reassign” a Lieutenant to await the lost Sea Gull at Valparaiso and return to the United States when she did not return. Relief had lost her anchors in a storm on the way to Valparaiso; as the ship was the slowest in the squadron anyway, she was ordered to return to the United States carrying not only scientific specimens collected thus far, but many of the other officers who had lost Wilkes’ favor.
On the voyage west from Valparaiso to Sydney, Wilkes’ inexperience at sea became painfully apparent. In early October, Vincennes spent around a week at anchor in Pago-Pago, a deep natural harbor in Tutuila, what is now American Samoa. While it was easy for a sailing ship to enter the harbor, due to the prevailing trade winds it was extremely difficult to leave. Charles Wilkes’ attempt to guide Vincennes out of the harbor proved disastrous, and he publicly exclaimed that “this was the last” as Vincennes seemed likely to dash on the rocks. Only the quick thinking of their pilot saved the ship from certain doom. Wilkes recovered from this embarrassment by taking out his frustrations on junior officers and sending home one of the expeditions scientists who objected to his behavior.
| USS Vincennes in the ice off Antarctica (Peabody Essex Museum) |
Their second southern expedition had far greater success. They departed from Sydney on December 26 (Wilkes with a gifted Newfoundland puppy named Sydney at his side), bound for the great Southern Sea. The next two months would see the four ships navigate treacherous waters, clogged with icebergs of all shapes and sizes, and ferocious winter gales. Land was first spotted on January 19, 1849 (according to the logs), Vincennes, Peacock, and Porpoise began a survey of the Antarctic coastline, confirming Antarctica to be a continent, and not just a massive ice sheet as had been assumed thus far. Flying Fish was forced to turn back after the little schooner found herself unable to handle the Antarctic winds.
Unfortunately, Peacock’s rudder was disabled after her stern collided with an iceberg, disabling her. It was only due to a well-timed gale blowing Peacock away that prevented the poor ship from being crushed by a giant ice sheet that had been shaken loose by the collision. By January 26, after emergency repairs to the rudder, Peacock set sail back to Sydney for repairs.
| USS Peacock in the ice (Drawing by M. Osbourne. Oregon Historical Society Research Library) |
On February 14, Vincennes landed a research party on a particularly large iceberg, allowing the crew to disembark and gather samples of rocks and bags of fresh water from the iceberg. On February 21, Wilkes determined that they had explored as far as they could, and they set off back north. The expedition had mapped nearly 1500 miles of Antarctic coastline; this stretch of coastline was later named Wilkes Land in honor of the expedition and its leader. Despite the obstacles thrown in his way by nature, his men, and his own personality, Charles Wilkes had made his name in history as the man who had, for all intents and purposes, discovered the Antarctic continent.
| Vincennes crew and dog Sydney on an iceberg (NHHC) |
The next leg of the journey would see them trade the frigid Antarctic waters for the balmy tropics of Fiji and Hawaii, and the roaring waters of the Columbia River. Wilkes would continue to broaden America’s knowledge of the natural world, while sowing the seeds of his own destruction.

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